And what’s this? Actual chunks of radish inside (it’s really radish that’s used in these square-cut marvels, not Western turnips) complicate matters in the gentlest way.
I was wowed by the steamed and pan-fried turnip cakes, lightly crisped on the outside, and trembly-soft within. Here, the traditional orange topping is a single goji berry that pops out visually and, tartly, on the tongue. Just as impressive: pork and shrimp siu mai with a savory filling in which each ingredient kept its textural integrity. And some of the prettiest shrimp bonnets (har gow) I’ve ever seen, their translucent crimped skins clasping a juicy shrimp filling of startling clarity. Alison Cook/Staff Show More Show Less 5 of6 Steamed pork bao from Tim Ho Wan, the new Hong Kong dim sum specialist in Katy Asian Town mall Alison Cook/Staff Show More Show Less 6 of6 The dining room at Tim Ho Wan Alison Cook/Staff Show More Show Less Use Next and Previous buttons to navigateġ of6 Turnip cakes at Tim Ho Wan in Katy Asian Town mall Alison Cook/Staff Show More Show Less 2 of6 Sesame lava balls at Tim Ho Wan in Katy Asian Town mall Alison Cook/Staff Show More Show Less 3 of6 Steamed shrimp bonnets at Tim Ho Wan in Katy Asian Town mall Alison Cook/Staff Show More Show Less 4 of6 Fried bao with chicken and ginger essence at Tim Ho Wan in Katy Asian Town mall. (I still mourn the loss of made-to-order practitioner Yum Yum Cha, the pop-and-daughter spot in Rice Village,) That immediacy is vanishingly rare in the world of Houston dim sum. The first steamed dumpling I popped into my mouth was almost dangerously hot and juicy. The fact that the dim sum is made to order here, rather than trundled around on carts, cooling and drying out, makes all the difference in the world. WHERE TO EAT: Houston’s Top 100 Restaurants With its opulent five-spiced BBQ pork filling, pillowy steamed dough and delicate sugared crunch on top, it’s a sweet bite that should be appreciated on its own at first - then contrasted with a make-your-own dip of soy and red chile paste.
DIM SUM DELIVERY HOUSTON CRACKED
A filigreed tracery of sweet cream skims the surface of the baked bun, looking like cracked ice on a pond. At lunch last week, three weeks into the restaurant’s life, memories flooded back as I bit into Tim Ho Wan’s distinctive char siu bao.
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